The Gem of Western Montana: Rock Creek

The word “beautiful” is thrown around with ease when anglers refer to their favorite streams. Every fisherman is entitled to their objective opinion, and one could even consider all streams to capture some aspect of beauty. There are many picturesque settings to wet a line, whether it is a quiet and clear mountain stream or a bashful blue current from a major tributary. Although there is no shortage of streams deemed “beautiful”, there doesn’t seem to be a better word to subjectively describe the trout stream of Rock Creek. Rock Creek is something out of a fly fisher's dream; 52 miles of trout paradise with overhanging trees, large boulder gardens, grassy banks, and jagged rock-scapes that paint the environment one wades in. As I look back with reverence at my time filled with days on Rock Creek, I am filled with solemn pleasure to have been fortunate enough to experience those waters that I used to call home.

Anglers coming from the north entrance are initially greeted by the Rock Creek Mercantile, an old school fly shop and beer stop that looks like a wooden relic from days of fishing past. Loaded with boxes of native fly patterns, floppy fishing hats, and Star Wars themed trout shirts, it is a shop filled with character, the product of a less pretentious culture within fly fishing. The merc is managed by friendly employees who possess a vested interest in their customer’s fishing plans, and who exhibit a willingness to pass native wisdom onto those with genuine intentions. The Rock Creek Mercantile is a true local gem, and a wonderful way to kick start a day at the creek. Along with some of your grandfather’s flies, and maybe a 6-pack of Missoula’s best beverages, the adventure is ready to commence with an optimistic send-off.

Conversely to this warm welcome, Rock Creek Road is a notoriously hostile path that guides the angler to the river in a much less than friendly manner. This narrow path is filled with deep potholes and bordered by rocky edges that are almost intentionally grabbing for vehicles as they work their way down the road. What makes navigating this road even more challenging is the fact that there is a gorgeous blue stream winding beside it, begging to steal your attention off the road for a quick examination. Another prominent obstruction is the occasional herd of big horn sheep that refuse to adhere to civil standards, moving across the road in their own time. The incursion down this road may be a difficult task, but ultimately justifies itself when the opportunity arrives to pull into one of the many clearings near the water.

Rock Creek consists of a variety of environments along its length. The lower section consists of roaming pastureland in an area deemed “The Valley of the Moon”, with tall grass and sparse trees, where horses roam past their boundaries to occasionally greet anglers. The river cuts into the land here, and winds and braids as it makes its way out of the tributary. Upstream from this section, the setting changes dramatically, as mountains begin to develop on each side of the river and the trees begin to thicken. This section of the creek is characterized by its occasional rapids, emerging boulder fields, overhanging trees, and deep pools. An identifying feature of this area is the Welcome Creek swinging bridge, allowing cross river access during high water seasons. Moving upstream, the water winds its way around significantly more private land, where historic hunting cabins scatter below the imposing hills. From here the creek can be followed far up to its origin in the remote Sapphire mountains.

It does not take long for the following to become apparent to the visiting angler; Rock Creek is trout water. Multiple times a day, massive insect hatches are triggered, resulting in sporadic splashing and sipping of the wild salmonoids beneath the water’s surface. Depending on the time of year, those bugs may consist of juicy skwalas, giant salmonflies, fluttering spruce moths, and too many variations of caddis to count. This creates an environment that allows the trout to develop in healthy size and number. The resident trout are used to snacking their select hatches, and they are well educated to the artificial flies mixing in with the naturals. This difficulty of selection presents a suitable challenge to the fly angler, while the sheer population of trout still allows for an abundance of catch opportunity. This combination of variables leads to incredible encounters with the fish who have claimed these waters for hundreds of years.

Native species of cutthroat trout and the occasional bull trout stalk these waters, along with the introduced species of wild brown trout, rainbow trout, and a small population of brook trout. Targeting these fish takes strategy, as different species dominate separate sections of the river. Fishing streamers close to the bank of Lower Rock Creek are apt to catch the eye of a hungry brown, while lighter flies on the surface of Upper Rock Creek will produce feistier cutthroat. Every cast is still a gamble as native whitefish roam the territory alongside their trout brethren, looking to steal a share of grub for themselves. Aggressive attacks are not uncommon, leading to impressive displays of acrobatic ability when these fish take to the air in hopes of forcing the hook out of their mouths. These fish will fight a determined fly angler up and down the current, refusing to give up, even upon capture into the net. A trout’s energetic squirming makes for a difficult time trying to capture a picture but allows for a tranquil moment of release when the fish kicks its tail and returns to its holding lie. This is a special moment indeed, cherished and appreciated by anglers fortunate enough to experience battle with one of nature’s earliest creatures.

Shared experience is common at Rock Creek, as it is one of the most popular trout fishing streams in the area. Every summer, anglers flock from across the country to experience this beautiful stream for themselves. Some Montana locals take this growth as an insult and see these anglers as unwanted guests to their cherished waters. This has always seemed like a silly and redundant concept, for the few to gatekeep this pure natural beauty, holding it hostage to be only experienced by themselves. What a burden, to harbor resentment for those with honest ambitions of enjoying this sacred land. These waters deserve to be respected of course, but if handled properly can be a wonder shared by all. It is also worth noting the fact that Rock Creek does consist of over 50 miles of fishable water, so it is not unfeasible to find water to claim independently, distanced from other anglers. This is not a stream slandered by combat fishing, and most anglers practice the common courtesy expected when approaching other fishers in the creek.

Rock Creek holds its place as a true Western Montana treasure, a gem of the local fishing rivers. It is a legendary tributary, from its inception in Lolo National Forest, to its conclusion at the mighty Clark Fork River. The majesty and beauty of this trout stream is physically felt in its midst and can seldom be compared to anything else. As with a religious pilgrimage, its prominence requires to be lived and visited to be understood. Anglers alike are gripped by this river, departing its bumpy road each time with the promise of return, no matter what it takes. In my life away from the creek, I often catch myself daydreaming of this stream; the way its water swirls around the boulders, the sound of the rapids as they crash around bends, and the sight of sipping rainbow trout. In these times, I am reminded that fly fishing is an art form, and Rock Creek is the blank canvas used for a magnificent picture to emerge.